When we landed at Tocumen International airport last night, I felt the familiar sense of warmth and hospitality that I will forever associate with the country of Panama. This culture exudes compassion and welcome, and it is definitely possible to feel at home in this "foreign" country. Upon our arrival, I was excited to see a familiar face in Elvira Testa, our tour guide for the majority of the trip. When I visited Panama last year with my family, she was our tour guide as well. Elvira is a connoiseur of Panama- she can answer almost any question and will deifnitely help with your Spanish!
Staying at the hostel with my classmates has been an amazing experience as well! The hostel met and exceeded my expectations by far. The staff is overwhelmingly amicable and the atmosphere as a whole makes me feel like I'm staying at a resort! It has been a much needed departure from some of the stresses of home.
Waking up this morning was easy because I knew that visiting the Embera tribe was going to be one of the most vibrant and enlightening parts of our time spent in Panama. Swimming in the waterfall was so refreshing! There aren´t many places in Tampa where the water is so clean and pure that you can just jump in. This was my second time experiencing the culture of the Embera, and I still learned alot. During reflection, I was really glad when one of my classmates braved the topic of whether or not the Embera are a genuinely content people. Although it seems somewhat bleak to consider, it is necessary to acknowledge whether or not the children in the village are smiling because they have to, or because they really want to.
Eating was definitely one of the best parts of the day! Penca´s seemed like a very classy place to dine, and the food did not disappoint! The seafood here is amazing, so I definitely ordered Corvina for dinner. Some of my classsmates were even kind enough to share some of their octopus ceviche (and now I smell like an octopus).
Being forced to speak Spanish has definitely helped me to come out of my ¨shell¨ a little bit more. In the states, I am always embarassed to speak because I am afraid that native Spanish speakers will think that I have an American accent. But here, when Spanish is the only language that I can use, I really feel like I have learned alot more than I give myself credit for. Today has been great, and I can´t wait for tomorrow!
Saturday, March 14, 2009
Janine Villot: Panama Day 1
Technically, this would be my second day in Panama, as we arrived yesterday at Tocumen Airport. My first impression of Panama was how much it looks and feels like Tampa in architecture, city streets, plant life, and weather. The weather has been great--nicely warm, without too much humidity, and crystal blue skies. You come to appreciate why there are so many American retirees here: the weather is incredible. The hostal we are staying out is lovely. The atmosphere is comfortable, and the people almost familial.
Today, we went out to see the Embera tribe near Panama City. Our tour guide, who gave us a cornucopia of information on our bus ride to the national park, was a half-Chinese, half-indigenous man named Juan. He was very friendly and jovial, making us feel very welcome in his country. After talking with Juan some, he said that full-blooded Chinese here in Panama had rejected him and he in turn rejected them, embracing his indigenous background. Apparently, they were far more welcoming to him, and he knows them fairly well. The mixture of Juan's background stood in comparison to the Baha'i temple that we drove by--it's a combinative faith, including Islam, Christianity, Buddhism, and many other faiths. Here in Panama, that same mixture exists in the people. Even the Embera combine their indigenous faith with the Catholic and Protestant faiths brought to them. Like America, Panama seems to be a melting pot of people from all backgrounds and cultures.
It was a little shocking to see all the garbage on the side of the road near the cement factory, but other than this, Panama is gorgeous. There's a plethora of plants (including imported grass that prevents landslides in the ground with deep roots, and demonstrates even the environment has a combinative nature), and the buildings are colorful, though some are sadly in disrepair.
When we arrived at the national park where part of the Embera tribe stays, we rode a canoe down the river. The water was stunning and cool, and when we hiked over to the waterfall, most of us took a swim. After adjusting to the cold water, it was quite pleasant, and sitting at the foot of a waterfall was very relaxing. I would never feel comfortable going into river water in Florida, yet in Panama, the water seemed much cleaner. After some reflection, I wondered if letting tourists swim in this river, which the Embera use for sustenance, since they're no longer allowed to hunt, might harm the cleanliness of it. Since it was clean, I can only imagine that they do not receive the amount of tourism that might despoil it. This could change at any moment, making both the park and the Embera's future quite precarious.
After swimming, we went to the Embera tribe's small village and listened to some of their history. Then we ate a delicious lunch of fried fish, friend plaintains, and fresh fruit such as watermelon, pineapple, and bananas. They wore clothing that mimicked their traditional clothes, but were made from non'traditional products. The fabric for the men and women's loincloths and skirts came from the city, and their beaded headbands and bottom coverings were made from plastic. What was once made from a soft, malleable bark and fruit seeds are now reinvented by Westernized products. The state of their clothing is mirrored in their culture. Though living somewhat traditionally, the Embera will use modern medicine and leave their area to visit a clinic. Some also leave to get an education and come back (and some don't). While they seemed happy, they also seemed a little weary. I felt awkward at points, as the Embera have had to turn their culture into entertainment for tourists in order to make a living. This is unfortunate, but at the same time, I also wonder how happy they are living traditionally. We Westerners are in love with the idea of the noble savage or the peaceful tribesman living at one with nature, but these archetypes stifle the real people as much as the negative stereotypes. Knowing what they know, I wonder if they are truly satisfied with living as they do, or if they cling to it out of a sense of tradition. This is a question many people can ask of themselves, including Americans. I´ll make an example with the idea of capitalism--do we cling to it because it is beneficial, or because it is tradition and considered morally superior?
The Embera are 24,000 strong, including their kinsmen in the Darien province. The indigenous population of Panama totals roughly 10% or greater. They are an important minority, and a rather hefty minority, that the government needs to consider. Does the strictures the government places on them, and the lack of attention they give them, benefit them and allow them to live in peace traditionally or stifle them and promote poverty? I do not have the answers to these questions, only the Embera and the Panamanian government do, but I know the Embera ask this question--the leader alluded to it during his presentation. I wonder if the government does as well. From what Juan said, they government did not even offer the Embera aid until after the US was asked to step in. It's as if they become invisible because they choose to live their way, not the government's way, and exist separately from other Panamanians. I also wonder how much of their culture was lost to Christian missionaries and the Peace Corps workers there--two entities who, though trying to help, have historically Westernized and changed many indigenous populations. Unfortunately, we had no time to examine such complicated issues.
I love Panama so far, and I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Embera. I am left with an appreciation for a culture that seems to be morphing into a combination of traditionalism and modernism, and I wish them the best of luck, whatever changes come to them in the future.
Today, we went out to see the Embera tribe near Panama City. Our tour guide, who gave us a cornucopia of information on our bus ride to the national park, was a half-Chinese, half-indigenous man named Juan. He was very friendly and jovial, making us feel very welcome in his country. After talking with Juan some, he said that full-blooded Chinese here in Panama had rejected him and he in turn rejected them, embracing his indigenous background. Apparently, they were far more welcoming to him, and he knows them fairly well. The mixture of Juan's background stood in comparison to the Baha'i temple that we drove by--it's a combinative faith, including Islam, Christianity, Buddhism, and many other faiths. Here in Panama, that same mixture exists in the people. Even the Embera combine their indigenous faith with the Catholic and Protestant faiths brought to them. Like America, Panama seems to be a melting pot of people from all backgrounds and cultures.
It was a little shocking to see all the garbage on the side of the road near the cement factory, but other than this, Panama is gorgeous. There's a plethora of plants (including imported grass that prevents landslides in the ground with deep roots, and demonstrates even the environment has a combinative nature), and the buildings are colorful, though some are sadly in disrepair.
When we arrived at the national park where part of the Embera tribe stays, we rode a canoe down the river. The water was stunning and cool, and when we hiked over to the waterfall, most of us took a swim. After adjusting to the cold water, it was quite pleasant, and sitting at the foot of a waterfall was very relaxing. I would never feel comfortable going into river water in Florida, yet in Panama, the water seemed much cleaner. After some reflection, I wondered if letting tourists swim in this river, which the Embera use for sustenance, since they're no longer allowed to hunt, might harm the cleanliness of it. Since it was clean, I can only imagine that they do not receive the amount of tourism that might despoil it. This could change at any moment, making both the park and the Embera's future quite precarious.
After swimming, we went to the Embera tribe's small village and listened to some of their history. Then we ate a delicious lunch of fried fish, friend plaintains, and fresh fruit such as watermelon, pineapple, and bananas. They wore clothing that mimicked their traditional clothes, but were made from non'traditional products. The fabric for the men and women's loincloths and skirts came from the city, and their beaded headbands and bottom coverings were made from plastic. What was once made from a soft, malleable bark and fruit seeds are now reinvented by Westernized products. The state of their clothing is mirrored in their culture. Though living somewhat traditionally, the Embera will use modern medicine and leave their area to visit a clinic. Some also leave to get an education and come back (and some don't). While they seemed happy, they also seemed a little weary. I felt awkward at points, as the Embera have had to turn their culture into entertainment for tourists in order to make a living. This is unfortunate, but at the same time, I also wonder how happy they are living traditionally. We Westerners are in love with the idea of the noble savage or the peaceful tribesman living at one with nature, but these archetypes stifle the real people as much as the negative stereotypes. Knowing what they know, I wonder if they are truly satisfied with living as they do, or if they cling to it out of a sense of tradition. This is a question many people can ask of themselves, including Americans. I´ll make an example with the idea of capitalism--do we cling to it because it is beneficial, or because it is tradition and considered morally superior?
The Embera are 24,000 strong, including their kinsmen in the Darien province. The indigenous population of Panama totals roughly 10% or greater. They are an important minority, and a rather hefty minority, that the government needs to consider. Does the strictures the government places on them, and the lack of attention they give them, benefit them and allow them to live in peace traditionally or stifle them and promote poverty? I do not have the answers to these questions, only the Embera and the Panamanian government do, but I know the Embera ask this question--the leader alluded to it during his presentation. I wonder if the government does as well. From what Juan said, they government did not even offer the Embera aid until after the US was asked to step in. It's as if they become invisible because they choose to live their way, not the government's way, and exist separately from other Panamanians. I also wonder how much of their culture was lost to Christian missionaries and the Peace Corps workers there--two entities who, though trying to help, have historically Westernized and changed many indigenous populations. Unfortunately, we had no time to examine such complicated issues.
I love Panama so far, and I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Embera. I am left with an appreciation for a culture that seems to be morphing into a combination of traditionalism and modernism, and I wish them the best of luck, whatever changes come to them in the future.
First Impressions (day 1, Jonathan Casanas)
Arriving in Panama, I wasn't sure what to expect. Yes, we had done our homework, research and studies, yet nothing gives you the impression that is first felt when you find yourself surrounded by a group of individuals, which to you, are foreigners. However, you soon come to the realization that you are the foreigner. Personally, this is my first international trip. The farthest from home I've ever been is Virginia ( I being born in Tampa, fl). Arriving at the Panama airport it was evident that I was no longer in the U.S. The at customs; lack of organization and efficiency that I'm accustomed to in the states, I was told that I should be flexible with whatever I encounter. I'm going to keep this in mind for the duration of this trip. This isn't the U.S., although at sometimes Panama City may closely resemble it.
However, as I am finding out, the Panamanian people are extrememly polite and hospitable. I feel more at home than I expected to. Having grown with hispanic cultural background, I'm finding the behavior of the Panamanian people very familiar. I suspect this would be true in almost in central american/carribean country I visited.
Although the airport had it's headaches, today was amazing! The Embera people! What an interesting culture and piece of Panamanian history. I was thrilled to see a culture so different from my own; the way they dressed, how they spoke, the instruments they played, the houses they lived in, the modes of their transportation, their harmony with the surrounding environment, etc... I find the situation of the Embera people extremely interesting. They are an old culture striving to survive, dependant on the modern ways of life; restrained by government, economy and modern social custom. If it wasnt for torism and more specificaly; ecotourism, I wonder whether or not they would have continued to survived. Like the Kuna people they are dependant on these service industies to continue their way of life.
- j. Casanas
However, as I am finding out, the Panamanian people are extrememly polite and hospitable. I feel more at home than I expected to. Having grown with hispanic cultural background, I'm finding the behavior of the Panamanian people very familiar. I suspect this would be true in almost in central american/carribean country I visited.
Although the airport had it's headaches, today was amazing! The Embera people! What an interesting culture and piece of Panamanian history. I was thrilled to see a culture so different from my own; the way they dressed, how they spoke, the instruments they played, the houses they lived in, the modes of their transportation, their harmony with the surrounding environment, etc... I find the situation of the Embera people extremely interesting. They are an old culture striving to survive, dependant on the modern ways of life; restrained by government, economy and modern social custom. If it wasnt for torism and more specificaly; ecotourism, I wonder whether or not they would have continued to survived. Like the Kuna people they are dependant on these service industies to continue their way of life.
- j. Casanas
Today was an exciting and adventurous expedition. Some of the bad things that happened would include getting an upset stomach from drinking a homemade melon flavored drink this morning and cutting myself while trying to swim by the water fall we visited. Now that the two bad things have been taken care of I will elaborate on everything that I love about our trip so far. I love being able to see the city and the country side while traveling to see the indigenous tribe. Being able to see the landscape was truly amazing. On the downside there was quite a bit of trash, there was a lot of hurt animals and I saw a lot of slashing and burning. This makes me contemplate some of the projects that future classes could work on when they visit. The Embera people were extremely nice and welcoming of us. I thought it was absolutely wonderful that they made food for us. Not only was it traditional, but it was absolutely delicious. One thing that bothered me was when they were doing their traditional dance. Some of the women seemed sort of depressed to be doing and like they may not have been doing it because they wanted to. This bothered me because it almost seems as if their culture and traditional ways are being turned into a tourist attraction. I think it is one thing for a group of people to share your culture with you because they want to, it is however an entirely different case when they act as if they are being forced to perform for your own pleasure. That was my only dissapointment of our trip. Other than that I found the scenery to be breathtaking and the experience unlike anything I have ever done.
Michelle Blanco Day 1
Saturday March 14, 2009
Today we visited the Embera indigenous tribe, and had a great time learning about their way of life, tried their DELICIOUS food, and swam in a beautiful waterfall near their village. The 5 of us girls staying in the hostile in room 4, woke up at 7:15am this morning in a panic thinking that we were super late for the bus that was picking us up at 7:30am. After quickly getting dressed and brushing our teeth all at the same time (some had to run to the kitchen to brush their teeth because there wasn't enough room in our tiny bathroom) we realized that we forgot to set back our clocks one hour for the time change in Panama! So we were actually early =)
The bus ride to river took about an hour and a half. At the river there were several Embera men and boys, dressed in their native clothing (beaded necklaces and loin cloths) waiting to give us life jackets and load into the canoes. The canoe ride to the trail was about 15 minutes, and was incredibly beautiful. The water was very smooth and the surrounding rain forest was very colorful.
It was about a 15 minute hike to get the waterfall, which was also very beautiful. The water was not very cold at all, and most of us went swimming for a while. There was a log in the middle of the water which made for a great dock to jump off of. After swimming at the waterfall we hiked back down to the boats, which to us to their village for lunch. The children were adorable, and the women very beautiful. The girls wore long beaded necklaces, colorful skirt wraps, and flowered head pieces, while most of the children wore little to no clothing. Most of the Emberas have learned spanish in addition to their native language, and one of the village men told us about how the Emberas create the crafts that they sell, and the way they live their daily life. We ate lunch, consisting of the best Tilapia fish and plantains that I have ever eaten, along with a variety of fruit. After lunch we watched the villagers dance to their own music, and then joined along. They offered us henna tattoos for a dollar, and I got one on my wrist =).
I like the fact that the Embera people have been able to hold on to many of their traditions, and that many of them still know their original indigenous dialect. But I felt a little uncomfortable with the little children having to entertain us and smile. I realize that the Embera people depend on tourists to make a living now, but it is a job that starts for them as children.
We are now back at the Hostile after a canoe and boat ride back. We are planning on walking to the causeway tonight to check out the nightlife and eat dinner. Our first day in Panama exceeded my expectations, and overall was a great success!!
Day 1
Tried to fall asleep around 12:00 AM...Almost successful but, the girls next door had a run in with a spider and they needed some men to take care of it. Got to bed around 1:00 and then woke up at 6:30, I didn´t really feel tired though. Must have been the excitement. We made our way towards the Embera tribe at around 7:30 and arrvied at 9:30. It was definately a long a bumpy ride. It was amazing to see all of the untarnished land that exists outside of the city here. Once we arrived we were greeted by the Embera...they are relatively friendly people and most of them spoke spanish so it wasn´t too difficult to communicate. The Embera took us on a canoe trip. All you could see were miles and miles of trees, and it was beautiful. There was the occasional hut but, even those didn´t ruin the view. We took the canoes to trail in the forest. A few classmates and I decided to walk ahead of the pack. We encountered spiderwebs the size of our heads and lizards with neon green stripes...Things you don´t see that often. We followed the path all the way to a waterfall. Words really can´t do the scene and justice, so I´ll leave that up to the pictures that I´m going to upload. Many of my classmates took the opportunity to swim at the base of the waterfall. Sayeff and I decided to climb up the side of the waterfall instead of swimming. In retrospect this was probably a dumb idea but, we wanted to explore. The path was realtively narrow so it was difficult to navigate...by the time we reached the top we were somewhere around 25 feet off the ground. We followed the path a little bit further to get some better pictures of the top of the waterfall. After a few snapshots we went to the edge of the waterfall and looked at our classmates swimming down below. We took a few more photos and headed down. The descent was much more difficult then the ascent. Since it was so narrow at some points we were almost sitting and sliding down rocks. Sayeef and I encountered Anton on our way down and he wanted to head up and check it out. We were all about to turn around and climb back up when Mr. Mejias shouted at us to get down, apparently the guide told us there were jaguars up there. It´s a shame I didn´t get to see one, that would have been a crazy experience. During the rest of our descent I lost my footing and grabbed onto a tree to steady myself. That was my first mistake. The tree was infested with ants which happened to be about the size of my eye, and they had a bite to match! Needless to say I was bit in several places on my arm and it immediatly began swelling. Luckily, Mr. Lucien, a.k.a Mr. Prepared, had some benadryl which aptly took care of the swelling. We headed back to the canoes for another ride and this time they took us to one of their villages. We were greeted by boys in loincloths playing instruments...I´ll upload a video on facebook later to explain. About ten of us ran into a few children and began talking to them. They were very entertaining, they told me they were 5 years old and a little bit about there life. One of the little girls was beating up her little brother which was also pretty entertaining. Our guide led us to a giant hut made of strong wood and palm frans. Here we met an Embera named Antonio who told us everything there was to know about their culture. It was very interesting...The woman there get married between the ages of 16 and 20 and it´s not uncommon for a family to have more than 6 children. We were also fed a traditional meal which consisted of plantain chips and fried tilapia wrapped in a palm fran. Esta para chuparse los dedos! If you squeeze some fresh lemon on the plantains they taste 100x better...I learned that trick from Hugo. We also ate some typical fruits; pineapples, watermelons, oranges, and bananas. They served us water and coca-cola to drink, the interesting thing is that coca-cola here tastes a little different then in America because they don´t use high fructose corn syrup, instead they use pure sugar cane. After dinner we were taken to another hut where some of the younger Embera showed us their traditional dance. It was definately different. After they showed the dance they started grabbing some of my classmates and making them dance too. Now we were having fun! I got it all on film by the way...It´s all going to be on facebook when I get back :). After the dancing some of the Embera gave us tattoos. The ink was made from a fruit and it apparently lasts about 10 days. Mine looks pretty sweet. I tipped the lady a few dollars after giving me one, it seemed like that was the way things were done. I had an opportunity to look at many of the handmade things they were selling. They were awesome! Statues of jaguars, frogs, dolphins, turtles, and herons all made out of this dense wood. I heard that a single statue takes about a month to complete. I really wanted to buy one but they were very expensive...some were upwards of 100 dollars! But, for the amount of work they put into them I understand why the price was so high. I did purchase a gift for my girlfriend...I still need to find some stuff for the rest of my family. Hopefully we can visit un mercado del aire libre and I can find some stuff for them. After we finished our shopping the Embera took us back to the canoes and brought us back to shore where our bus was waiting. I slept the two hour ride back and now I´m writing this blog. So far Panama is a fantastic experience and I´m hoping tomorrow is just as good!
-Billy Halaby
-Billy Halaby
Embera Tribe
Today was the first day of our adventures in Panama. To start off, my roomies and I woke up an hour earlier than we had to because we forgot to take the time difference into account. We were all rushing around our room trying to get ready in like 20 minutes when we actually had like an hour and a half. It was funny. Our bus picked us up around 7:30 am and we drove to the villas to pick up the rest of our group. The drive to the National Park was long, but a trip in itself. I saw poverty on the way that I had never seen before--little homes made out of scraps, litter everywhere, and people sitting under little makeshift huts on the sides of the roads. It made me really think to be grateful, really, for all that I have back home. Yet amongst all this poverty, there was such beauty in the area as well. The landscape is gorgeous with mountains, clear blue skies, bright colorful flowers, and "golden" trees (these trees have the brightest yellow flowers covering them). It is magnificent scenery.
Once we arrived at our drop-of location in the National Park, it was right by a huge, huge lake. We were greeted by Embera tribal men wearing their traditional loin cloths. We rode motor-powered canoes to a trail in the mountains. Then we walked a little ways to a waterfall and got to swim beneath it. It was amazing. The water was really cold, but it was so much fun. There was a log floating in the water and we all were jumping off it--well I tried to jump off it, but slipped instead the first time. It was a good time :) My favorite part was sitting on the rocks and letting the water just fall on m back; the pressure made it feel like a back massage.
When we were done swimming and playing in the water, we walked back to our canoes and traveled to an Embera village. The people were so friendly and kind. They made us feel so welcomed. When we first arrived, they welcomed us with a song--and even though I did not know what they were singing, it was still amazing. Then we went to one of the huts where we learned about their history, lifestyle, marriage and funeral customs, and how they survive. We were showed the different pine fibers that are used for their crafts and handi-work that they then sell for money to take to the city and by supplies for their village. It was amazing to see how much work and detail goes into one basket or mini-statue. We also learned how they dye the fibers different colors--they use fruits and nuts that they either boil, or soak, or extract the color somehow. It was very interesting.
The women had prepared lunch for us which consisted of fresh fish, platanos, and all sorts of fresh fruit, including bananas, oranges, pineaple, lemons, and watermelon. It all tasted so fresh and delicious. Everything was really yummy!
After eating, we were taken to a different hut to watch some traditional dances. Then we got to join in. Some of the people were also going around and giving us "tattoos". It is like henna except the dye is made from fruit.
After that we shopped for a little bit and then it was time to go. I really didn't want to leave though. I loved the simplicity of their lifestyle. Not that what they do is simple, but they are free from the stresses and pressures that I feel boggle us down in the States. I also loved seeing how the whol village took care of the young children. Everyone pitched in with the babies and toddlers to make sure they were taken care of.
This whole experience today was one of, if not the, best experiences in my life. I learned so much about a differenct culture and had fun doing so. I loved every minute of it.
Once we arrived at our drop-of location in the National Park, it was right by a huge, huge lake. We were greeted by Embera tribal men wearing their traditional loin cloths. We rode motor-powered canoes to a trail in the mountains. Then we walked a little ways to a waterfall and got to swim beneath it. It was amazing. The water was really cold, but it was so much fun. There was a log floating in the water and we all were jumping off it--well I tried to jump off it, but slipped instead the first time. It was a good time :) My favorite part was sitting on the rocks and letting the water just fall on m back; the pressure made it feel like a back massage.
When we were done swimming and playing in the water, we walked back to our canoes and traveled to an Embera village. The people were so friendly and kind. They made us feel so welcomed. When we first arrived, they welcomed us with a song--and even though I did not know what they were singing, it was still amazing. Then we went to one of the huts where we learned about their history, lifestyle, marriage and funeral customs, and how they survive. We were showed the different pine fibers that are used for their crafts and handi-work that they then sell for money to take to the city and by supplies for their village. It was amazing to see how much work and detail goes into one basket or mini-statue. We also learned how they dye the fibers different colors--they use fruits and nuts that they either boil, or soak, or extract the color somehow. It was very interesting.
The women had prepared lunch for us which consisted of fresh fish, platanos, and all sorts of fresh fruit, including bananas, oranges, pineaple, lemons, and watermelon. It all tasted so fresh and delicious. Everything was really yummy!
After eating, we were taken to a different hut to watch some traditional dances. Then we got to join in. Some of the people were also going around and giving us "tattoos". It is like henna except the dye is made from fruit.
After that we shopped for a little bit and then it was time to go. I really didn't want to leave though. I loved the simplicity of their lifestyle. Not that what they do is simple, but they are free from the stresses and pressures that I feel boggle us down in the States. I also loved seeing how the whol village took care of the young children. Everyone pitched in with the babies and toddlers to make sure they were taken care of.
This whole experience today was one of, if not the, best experiences in my life. I learned so much about a differenct culture and had fun doing so. I loved every minute of it.
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