Janine Villot: Panama Day 1

Technically, this would be my second day in Panama, as we arrived yesterday at Tocumen Airport. My first impression of Panama was how much it looks and feels like Tampa in architecture, city streets, plant life, and weather. The weather has been great--nicely warm, without too much humidity, and crystal blue skies. You come to appreciate why there are so many American retirees here: the weather is incredible. The hostal we are staying out is lovely. The atmosphere is comfortable, and the people almost familial.

Today, we went out to see the Embera tribe near Panama City. Our tour guide, who gave us a cornucopia of information on our bus ride to the national park, was a half-Chinese, half-indigenous man named Juan. He was very friendly and jovial, making us feel very welcome in his country. After talking with Juan some, he said that full-blooded Chinese here in Panama had rejected him and he in turn rejected them, embracing his indigenous background. Apparently, they were far more welcoming to him, and he knows them fairly well. The mixture of Juan's background stood in comparison to the Baha'i temple that we drove by--it's a combinative faith, including Islam, Christianity, Buddhism, and many other faiths. Here in Panama, that same mixture exists in the people. Even the Embera combine their indigenous faith with the Catholic and Protestant faiths brought to them. Like America, Panama seems to be a melting pot of people from all backgrounds and cultures.

It was a little shocking to see all the garbage on the side of the road near the cement factory, but other than this, Panama is gorgeous. There's a plethora of plants (including imported grass that prevents landslides in the ground with deep roots, and demonstrates even the environment has a combinative nature), and the buildings are colorful, though some are sadly in disrepair.

When we arrived at the national park where part of the Embera tribe stays, we rode a canoe down the river. The water was stunning and cool, and when we hiked over to the waterfall, most of us took a swim. After adjusting to the cold water, it was quite pleasant, and sitting at the foot of a waterfall was very relaxing. I would never feel comfortable going into river water in Florida, yet in Panama, the water seemed much cleaner. After some reflection, I wondered if letting tourists swim in this river, which the Embera use for sustenance, since they're no longer allowed to hunt, might harm the cleanliness of it. Since it was clean, I can only imagine that they do not receive the amount of tourism that might despoil it. This could change at any moment, making both the park and the Embera's future quite precarious.

After swimming, we went to the Embera tribe's small village and listened to some of their history. Then we ate a delicious lunch of fried fish, friend plaintains, and fresh fruit such as watermelon, pineapple, and bananas. They wore clothing that mimicked their traditional clothes, but were made from non'traditional products. The fabric for the men and women's loincloths and skirts came from the city, and their beaded headbands and bottom coverings were made from plastic. What was once made from a soft, malleable bark and fruit seeds are now reinvented by Westernized products. The state of their clothing is mirrored in their culture. Though living somewhat traditionally, the Embera will use modern medicine and leave their area to visit a clinic. Some also leave to get an education and come back (and some don't). While they seemed happy, they also seemed a little weary. I felt awkward at points, as the Embera have had to turn their culture into entertainment for tourists in order to make a living. This is unfortunate, but at the same time, I also wonder how happy they are living traditionally. We Westerners are in love with the idea of the noble savage or the peaceful tribesman living at one with nature, but these archetypes stifle the real people as much as the negative stereotypes. Knowing what they know, I wonder if they are truly satisfied with living as they do, or if they cling to it out of a sense of tradition. This is a question many people can ask of themselves, including Americans. I´ll make an example with the idea of capitalism--do we cling to it because it is beneficial, or because it is tradition and considered morally superior?

The Embera are 24,000 strong, including their kinsmen in the Darien province. The indigenous population of Panama totals roughly 10% or greater. They are an important minority, and a rather hefty minority, that the government needs to consider. Does the strictures the government places on them, and the lack of attention they give them, benefit them and allow them to live in peace traditionally or stifle them and promote poverty? I do not have the answers to these questions, only the Embera and the Panamanian government do, but I know the Embera ask this question--the leader alluded to it during his presentation. I wonder if the government does as well. From what Juan said, they government did not even offer the Embera aid until after the US was asked to step in. It's as if they become invisible because they choose to live their way, not the government's way, and exist separately from other Panamanians. I also wonder how much of their culture was lost to Christian missionaries and the Peace Corps workers there--two entities who, though trying to help, have historically Westernized and changed many indigenous populations. Unfortunately, we had no time to examine such complicated issues.

I love Panama so far, and I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Embera. I am left with an appreciation for a culture that seems to be morphing into a combination of traditionalism and modernism, and I wish them the best of luck, whatever changes come to them in the future.